當蘭州牛肉面跨越千里來到歐洲，外國朋友們可是“發現了新大陸”。在一條社交媒體上獲得數十萬點贊的視頻里，只見拉面師傅正行云流水地甩面，周圍圍滿了聚精會神拍攝的外國人。

圖源：視頻截圖

這一幕發生在瑞典首都斯德哥爾摩一家名為“牛蘭仙牛肉面”（Ox Lan Beef Noodle）的餐廳里。

在這里，蘭州牛肉面這道中國傳統美食，通過視覺和味覺的雙重魅力，“俘獲”了眾多北歐食客的胃和心。

Amid the savory aroma of simmering beef broth and the rhythmic movements of a noodle-pulling chef, Ox Lan attracts a lively crowd. This bustling restaurant is in Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, where a traditional Lanzhou delicacy has unexpectedly become a culinary sensation.

蘭州牛肉面如何“闖”進瑞典？

餐廳創始人周延，32歲，來自甘肅。2023年，他在瑞典旅行時注意到，斯德哥爾摩街頭有許多日本拉面和越南河粉店，當地人也都能吃得慣這種湯面，但是卻沒有正宗的中國面館。周延意識到，這是推廣蘭州牛肉面的好機會。

The idea of opening Ox Lan took root during a 2023 trip to Stockholm, where Zhou Yan, a 32-year-old native of Gansu province in Northwest China, noticed something missing from the city's otherwise vibrant Asian food scene: while Japanese ramen and Vietnamese pho were easy to find, authentic Chinese noodles were noticeably absent. Zhou saw an opportunity to introduce Swedes — already familiar with broth-based dishes — to Lanzhou beef noodles.

2024年5月周延在瑞典的生活照。圖源：受訪者供圖

“我一直覺得很奇怪，肯德基和麥當勞隨處可見，但國外卻很少有大型的中式快餐連鎖店。我的夢想就是讓牛肉面這樣的中餐也能走向世界。”

"I've always found it curious that KFC and McDonald's are everywhere, yet there are no major Chinese fast-food chains abroad," Zhou explained. "My dream is to make Chinese fast food — like beef noodles — just as popular and widespread."

于是，周延很快便著手籌備：研讀當地商業法規、聘請資深拉面師傅、選址開店。最終，瑞典首家蘭州牛肉面館正式開業。

Zhou quickly began making thorough preparations. He studied local business regulations, hired an experienced noodle-pulling chef, secured a location, and eventually opened Sweden's first Lanzhou beef noodles restaurant.

瑞典人排隊也要吃，

這碗面究竟有何“魔力”？

開業后，面館食客便絡繹不絕，門前排隊是常有的事。其中70%的顧客是瑞典本地人。

Since opening, Ox Lan has seen a steady stream of patrons — 70 percent of them Swedish.

據周延介紹，“牛蘭仙”最吸引瑞典食客的是“現場拉面秀”。外國顧客吃慣了的日本拉面和越南河粉大多用機器制面。而蘭州牛肉面是師傅手工現拉的，當地人很少見過，都覺得新奇。

"Customers are captivated by the artistry of hand-pulled noodles," Zhou said. "They're used to ramen and pho, which are often pre-made. Watching dough transform into noodles in front of them is a whole new experience."

圖源：受訪者供圖

此外，餐廳提供七種不同粗細的面條，從0.5毫米粗的“毛細”到5厘米粗的“大寬”，顧客都能隨心挑選。這也是吸引當地顧客的一大因素。周延說：“在蘭州，最受歡迎的是‘二細’，吃起來口感好又勁道。但瑞典人目前還沒有特定的偏好，七種都很樂意嘗試。”

Another unique feature that fascinates local customers is the option to choose the width of the noodles. Zhou offers seven variations, from a delicate 0.5 mm to a robust 50 mm strand. "In Lanzhou, the most popular choice is erxi — the fourth thinnest — for its perfect balance of texture and bite," he said. "But in Sweden, there isn't a favorite yet. People are open to trying all seven options."

餐廳不只依賴豐富的視覺體驗，也看重味道。餐廳中每一碗牛肉面都嚴格遵循蘭州牛肉面的“一清二白三紅四綠五黃”的傳統“五要素”，也就是清湯、白蘿卜片、辣椒油、蒜苗和黃面條。

But Zhou's dedication goes beyond visual spectacle. Each bowl at Ox Lan strictly follows the traditional "five elements" of Lanzhou beef noodles: crystal-clear broth, white radish slices, chili oil, green garlic sprouts, and golden wheat noodles.

周延尤為注重湯底。每天煮湯要用到100斤牛肉，配以牛骨，再加入八角、丁香、胡椒等20味香料，熬煮上五到八個小時。為確保風味，周延每天都會去店里試嘗。

Of these, Zhou pays particular attention to the broth, which simmers for five to eight hours each day. It combines 50 kilograms of beef and marrow-rich ox bones with 20 carefully chosen spices including star anise, clove, and pepper. To ensure consistency, Zhou personally tastes each batch every morning.

圖源：受訪者供圖

入駐更多歐洲城市

面條的制作過程也在社交媒體上大受歡迎。很多瑞典當地美食博主會主動探店，拍攝手工拉面的視頻。周延說，一些博主還會專門去網上了解蘭州的歷史文化，并介紹給粉絲。他認為這有利于中國文化的傳播與交流。

The noodle-making process has also become a hit on social media. Local influencers frequently post videos of the mesmerizing hand-pulling process, turning the restaurant into an unexpected cultural ambassador. "Some content creators even research Lanzhou's history and share it with their followers," Zhou noted. "It's a beautiful form of cultural exchange."

周延說：作為牛肉面的忠實愛好者，他覺得自己有責任將家鄉傳統美食分享給更多人。據周延介紹，蘭州這座四百萬人口的城市，就有大約兩三千家牛肉面館。在他看來，對于蘭州來說，牛肉面不僅僅是食物，更是當地的文化標志。

"As a devoted lover of beef hand-pulled noodles, I feel compelled to share the culinary heritage of my hometown, which dates back to 1915, with a wider audience," Zhou said. According to Zhou, Lanzhou, a city of four million people, is home to an estimated 2,000 to 3,000 beef noodle shops. "Here, beef noodles aren't just food — they're a cultural icon," he said.

周延在Ox Lan拉面館。圖源：受訪者供圖

目前，周延正計劃在世界各地開設更多分店，西班牙的三個新店已開始籌備，法國、意大利也在計劃中。未來，他想把中式快餐引入更多的歐洲大城市。

Zhou is now planning to launch more locations around the world, with three new spots already in the works in Spain. "I want to introduce Chinese fast food to more major European cities," he said. "France and Italy are next on my list."

來源：21世紀英文報 China Daily Z Weekly

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