若要說(shuō)一處山水能與詩(shī)同眠、與畫(huà)同色,那便是桂林。千百年來(lái),不知多少文人墨客為“桂林山水甲天下”揮毫潑墨,把青峰、碧水、漁舟、煙雨,繪成一幅流動(dòng)的江南畫(huà)卷。
初到桂林,最難忘的便是漓江。漓江自貓兒山發(fā)源,彎彎繞繞流經(jīng)桂林城,滋養(yǎng)了這片青山秀水,也洗滌了來(lái)客的心。晨光熹微,江面薄霧彌漫,幾只竹筏慢悠悠地劃過(guò),船頭立著披蓑戴笠的漁翁,一只鸕鶿靜靜棲在竹篙上,偶爾撲通一聲潛入江心,帶回一尾鮮活的魚(yú)兒。此情此景,如一幅活著的水墨長(zhǎng)卷,動(dòng)中有靜,靜中生動(dòng)。
漓江兩岸,山峰迤邐。最是那千姿百態(tài)的喀斯特山峰,刀劈斧削、形態(tài)各異??吹枚嗔?,竟覺(jué)得這些山有了靈氣,像是從古老傳說(shuō)里走來(lái)的神獸,有的昂首天外,有的臥伏江畔,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)近近,或聚或散,皆是一種不食人間煙火的風(fēng)骨。
陽(yáng)朔是許多人眼中桂林山水的靈魂。沿漓江順流而下,竹筏輕擺,水波粼粼,忽而一陣細(xì)雨落下,江面起了層層輕煙。江岸是連綿的青山,山腳點(diǎn)綴著一兩個(gè)白墻灰瓦的小村落,偶有炊煙裊裊升起,與江上的煙雨交織,分不清是人間還是畫(huà)里。
到了陽(yáng)朔西街,山水的詩(shī)意與人間的煙火便交織在了一起。白天的西街古色古香,青石板路上人來(lái)人往,酒吧、咖啡館、小攤點(diǎn)、客棧錯(cuò)落有致。夜幕降臨時(shí),彩燈亮起,酒吧里傳來(lái)吉他聲與歡笑聲,中外游客混雜在這條老街上,喝著啤酒,說(shuō)著天南海北的故事,山水之外,是一種徹底放松的自由。
若想更近一步體會(huì)桂林的靈氣,怎能錯(cuò)過(guò)遇龍河?遇龍河是漓江的一條支流,比漓江更小巧溫柔。撐一葉竹筏,隨波緩緩而下,兩岸稻田金黃,遠(yuǎn)處青山如黛,偶爾一座拱橋橫臥河上,橋上人影晃動(dòng),橋下水波不興。水面低處漂來(lái)幾片落葉,輕輕打在竹筏邊,隨水遠(yuǎn)去,帶走浮躁,也帶來(lái)安寧。
有人說(shuō),看桂林的山,要坐船;賞桂林的水,要徒步。果然,若只坐在船上遠(yuǎn)望,總有幾分隔閡??扇粞刂旖降缆?,看江水拍岸,看漁舟往來(lái),看野鴨結(jié)隊(duì),看山影倒映,才真切地感受到這山水是活的,是可親近、可入懷的。
桂林的夜,亦別有味道。象鼻山靜臥江邊,山形如一頭巨象伸鼻飲江,夜色中燈光把象鼻與象身勾勒得分明。岸邊的游人或駐足拍照,或坐在江邊石階上,看江水潺潺,看漁火點(diǎn)點(diǎn),聽(tīng)夜風(fēng)吹過(guò),吹皺一江春水,也吹散心頭的塵囂。
若在桂林多留幾日,除了漓江、陽(yáng)朔、遇龍河,不妨去一趟龍脊梯田。不同于桂林的柔情水色,這里的美是層層疊疊的壯麗。春來(lái)水滿梯田,如串串銀帶蜿蜒山腰;夏時(shí)稻苗蔥翠,風(fēng)吹過(guò),稻浪起伏;秋日稻谷金黃,一派豐收?qǐng)D景。沿著狹窄的石階登高遠(yuǎn)望,梯田在腳下舒展開(kāi)去,仿佛大地寫(xiě)給天空的一封長(zhǎng)信。
離開(kāi)桂林時(shí),最不舍的,往往不是某一處山,某一段水,而是那種山水相依、人水相融的詩(shī)意日常。一碗米粉,一杯漓泉啤酒,幾聲桂柳方言,幾處煙火人家,就這樣把一座城市的底色,涂得溫柔又清澈。
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