中國遼東半島東端,有這樣一座低調卻獨具韻味的邊陲城市,它面江向海、倚山擁林,與朝鮮隔江相望,歷史與山水交織出獨有的邊境風情。它,就是丹東。
初到丹東,第一眼往往是從鴨綠江開始的。這條江發源于長白山,奔騰千里,最終在這里與黃海相匯。清晨的鴨綠江水面,常被一層薄霧輕輕籠住,江面開闊,江水帶著北方江河的沉靜與從容,緩緩流淌,岸邊蘆葦搖曳,偶爾有漁舟劃過,帶起粼粼波光。
鴨綠江斷橋,是丹東的獨特印記。這座橋一端伸向朝鮮,一端留在中國,百年來經歷戰火與風雨,如今殘缺的鋼架靜靜立在江面上,遠遠望去,像是歷史遺留下的一句沉默卻深刻的嘆息。橋頭站著的人,有的是遠道而來的游客,有的是土生土長的丹東人,大家或拍照留影,或倚著江欄凝望對岸的異域山水,思緒被江水帶向更遠的地方。
若要看鴨綠江的另一種面貌,最妙是在傍晚。夕陽西下時,江水被染成了溫暖的橘紅色,對岸的群山也披上柔和的暮色,江面上偶有貨船緩緩駛過,船槳攪動了落日的余暉。江風輕拂,帶來些許潮濕的涼意,也吹散了白日的浮躁。
離開江畔,往內陸去,就是丹東的另一道風景——鳳凰山。有人說,若沒登過鳳凰山,便不算真正到過丹東。鳳凰山雖不高,卻奇峰林立、古木參天,是遼東名山之一。沿著山間石階拾級而上,路過高聳入云的古松,溪水在山谷里叮咚作響。越往上走,林子越密,霧氣繚繞間,偶爾一縷陽光從枝葉縫隙間灑下,照在濕潤的青苔上,仿佛踏進了古老的傳說里。
鳳凰山上最出名的,當屬“懸空棧道”和“一線天”。走在懸空棧道上,腳下是萬丈深淵,遠處是層層疊疊的青山與翻騰的云海,山風吹過,帶著松針的清香與石縫里滲出的潮濕氣息,令人心曠神怡。一線天更是奇絕,石壁僅容一人側身而過,兩旁的山體如刀削斧劈,人在其中行走,步步驚心,卻也步步震撼。
丹東不僅有山有江,更有海的氣息。東港沿海灘涂廣袤,灘涂濕地與海風相伴,潮起潮落間,成群的候鳥在這里駐足,紅嘴鷗、白鷺、斑嘴鴨……成了海岸線上最靈動的音符。走在東港海岸線,腳下是細軟的沙子與濕潤的灘涂泥,遠處漁船點點,海風咸濕而干凈。
丹東的街巷里,藏著東北邊境的煙火氣。早晨的丹東人喜歡去江邊大市場,買剛捕撈上岸的江魚、海蝦,還有本地最出名的丹東草莓,新鮮飽滿、甜中帶酸。一碗熱氣騰騰的鍋包肉或是一盤溜肉段,酸甜脆嫩,透著這座城市熱烈豪爽的性子。到了夜里,小燒烤攤上炭火噼啪作響,一串串鮮嫩的羊肉、五花肉撒上孜然辣椒面,烤得滋滋冒油,配上冰鎮啤酒,江風一吹,再大的煩惱也被吹得無影無蹤。
若是冬季來到丹東,雪后的鴨綠江格外寂靜。岸邊蘆葦結著霜,江面被漂浮的冰塊點綴,天地仿佛只剩下黑白兩色。此時的斷橋顯得更加蒼涼,卻也更讓人沉思,一座橋,一條江,把一個民族的記憶與血性,悄悄刻進這片邊陲土地。
或許丹東不像北京、上海、廣州那樣熱鬧繁華,也沒有張家界、桂林那樣聲名遠播的絕美山水,但它自有一種安靜遼闊的魅力:山不高卻秀,水不喧卻長,人不多卻真,歲月不緊不慢,卻能撫平心上的褶皺。
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