札幌的雪是干的，落在羽絨服上簌簌作響，像撒了把鹽。我住在小樽的運河邊，舊式倉庫改造的咖啡館里，壁爐的火噼啪作響，玻璃窗上結著美麗的冰花。店主是位退休的鐵道員，他給我看珍藏的老照片，小樽運河當年的蒸汽船和如今的觀光船在照片里重疊。

旭山動物園的企鵝巡游是冬日的儀式。穿著制服的飼養員領著企鵝穿過雪地，它們的肚子貼在冰面上滑行，引得游客們陣陣歡笑。我在雪地里堆了個雪人，給它戴上從札幌白色燈節買的鹿角頭飾，陽光照在雪人的胡蘿卜鼻子上，泛著晶瑩的光。

在富良野的滑雪場，我摔了無數次跤，最后終于能笨拙地滑下初級道。教練田中是個高中生，他的滑雪板在雪地上劃出優美的弧線，像在跳一支冰上舞蹈。“滑雪要順著雪的方向，不能跟它較勁。” 他教我轉彎時身體要像風中的蘆葦，柔韌才能保持平衡。

網走的流冰季，海面凍成了白色的荒原。我坐上破冰船，船身撞碎冰層的聲音像悶雷，濺起的冰屑在陽光下閃著七彩的光。甲板上的俄羅斯游客遞給我一杯伏特加，說這是抵御嚴寒的最好方法，烈酒滑過喉嚨，留下一串溫暖的火。
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離開北海道那天，小樽下了場暴雪。我在運河邊的哨子館買了個玻璃哨子，吹起來的聲音清越，像雪粒落在冰面上。火車駛離站臺時，窗外的雪越下越大，把整個世界都染成了白色，只有記憶里的壁爐火光，依舊溫暖著旅途的寒冷。