剛踏上碼頭的石板路,就有股帶著棱角的風撞過來。我下意識地按住被吹亂的頭發(fā),指縫間漏過的氣流帶著咸澀的氣息,把行李箱滾輪碾過路面的咕嚕聲都揉碎了。遠處的浪濤正在礁石間翻涌,白花花的浪沫被風撕成碎片,揚到半空又簌簌落下,像是天空在撒一把碎鹽。
民宿的老板娘說這是換季的季風,帶著海深處的涼意。推開二樓房間的窗時,風突然變得溫順,貼著臉頰溜進衣領(lǐng),掀起衣角的瞬間,把城市里帶來的尾氣味、打印機油墨味、地鐵里的汗味,一股腦兒卷了出去。我趴在窗臺上看海,風掠過發(fā)梢時帶著細微的拉扯感,像是有雙無形的手在輕輕梳理打結(jié)的思緒。樓下的晾衣繩上掛著藍白條紋的床單,被風吹得鼓起飽滿的弧度,拍打在竹竿上發(fā)出啪嗒啪嗒的響,倒比任何鬧鐘都更讓人安心。
午后帶著書去沙灘,剛撐開遮陽傘就被風掀翻了三次。索性把傘收起來,任風把書頁吹得嘩嘩作響。有幾縷碎發(fā)粘在嘴角,嘗到淡淡的咸味,才驚覺海風早已悄悄漫過了所有防備。抬眼望見遠處的沖浪板在浪尖起伏,風推著浪花把板托起,又猛地摔進谷里,沖浪者的歡呼被風送過來,碎成星星點點的快樂。我合上書往海邊走,褲腳被風灌得鼓鼓囊囊,像是揣了兩只透明的氣球。
礁石叢里坐著個寫生的老人,畫架被幾塊石頭壓著,顏料盤里的鈷藍和鈦白被風吹得結(jié)了層薄痂。“這風啊,能把心里的灰都吹干凈。” 他蘸著海水調(diào)顏料時,風掀起他花白的胡須,“年輕時在廠里當會計,天天對著賬本憋氣,后來退了休來這兒,才知道人該像海沙似的,讓風隨便吹。” 我順著他的目光看向海面,風正推著浪往岸邊跑,把一串貝殼送到我們腳邊,其中一枚玉白色的殼上,還沾著被風刻出的細密紋路。
傍晚去懸崖上的觀景臺,風突然變得強勁起來。我扶著銹跡斑斑的護欄往下看,海浪在崖底撞出雪堆似的浪沫,飛沫被風卷到半空,像下了場細碎的雨。發(fā)繩突然松了,長發(fā)瞬間被風抓在手里,肆意地往身后拉扯。那些沒做完的報表、沒回的消息、沒解決的爭執(zhí),此刻都跟著發(fā)絲在風里亂舞,然后被扯成更細的碎片,散進遠處的暮色里。有只海鳥逆著風飛,翅膀繃得筆直,黑色的剪影在橘紅色的天幕上,像枚倔強的驚嘆號。
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民宿的露臺上有架舊秋千,入夜后風裹著星光蕩過來。我抱著膝蓋坐在秋千上,風掠過發(fā)梢時帶著露水的涼意,把遠處酒吧的吉他聲濾得格外清澈。隔壁桌的旅人在聊路上的見聞,說某個小島的風會吹口哨,某個海灣的風能托起風箏飛一整天。風突然轉(zhuǎn)了向,把他們的笑聲推到我耳邊,又輕輕拽著我的頭發(fā)往另一邊去,像是在說 “別發(fā)呆啦,快來聽故事”。
離開那天清晨,風停了片刻。收拾行李時發(fā)現(xiàn)發(fā)間還纏著幾根細沙,大概是海風留下的紀念。走到碼頭回頭望,浪濤依舊在礁石間翻涌,只是風變成了溫柔的推送,把船慢慢推出港灣。當引擎聲漸起時,風又追了上來,貼著舷窗掠過發(fā)梢,像句沒說出口的告別。摸了摸頭發(fā),果然比來時輕盈了許多 —— 那些被海風帶走的喧囂,大概正沉在某個浪谷里,隨著潮起潮落,慢慢化作海底的沙。
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