當汽車翻過橡皮山的埡口,那片無垠的藍突然撞入眼簾時,同行的藏族向導才旦笑著說:“措溫布在等你們呢。” 藏語里 “青色的海”,此刻正以一種近乎蠻橫的純粹,將七月的高原染成流動的藍。湖水從岸邊的淺綠漸變成湖心的靛藍,像被天神打翻的調色盤,將天空的顏色都沉淀在這海拔 3196 米的盆地里。
黑馬河的黎明總是裹著寒氣。凌晨五點的湖岸,經幡在零下的風中獵獵作響,幾個裹著藏袍的牧民正繞著瑪尼堆順時針行走,轉經筒的銅鈴在霧中輕響。我踩著結霜的沙礫往湖邊走,腳下的碎石子咯吱作響,驚起幾只水鳥,翅膀劃破湖面的聲音格外清晰。當第一縷陽光刺破云層,湖水突然被點燃了 —— 先是岸邊的浪花泛著金芒,接著是整片湖面化作熔化的琥珀,遠處的漁船剪影成了剪紙,連才旦煨桑的青煙都染上了暖意。他往火里撒著青稞粉,念叨著 “愿湖水永遠清澈”,火星在晨光中跳著,像落在湖面的星子。
沿湖西岸往南走,油菜花正鋪成金色的海洋。藏族牧民的白色帳篷散落在花海中,牦牛甩著尾巴啃食花瓣,蹄子踩過花叢的聲音窸窸窣窣。我蹲在花叢邊,看蜜蜂鉆進嫩黃的花芯,翅膀上沾著的金粉與遠處湖面的藍光相互映襯。才旦說這些油菜花是幾十年前從內地引來的,如今倒成了措溫布的項鏈。他指著花海盡頭的祭海臺,那里的經幡柱插在亂石堆里,五彩的經幡被風扯成直線,將祈愿送往云端。幾個穿紅衣的喇嘛坐在瑪尼堆旁誦經,經文聲混著風聲,讓這片藍更添了幾分神圣。
乘船往湖中央的海心山去時,湖水漸漸顯露出深邃的靛藍。船舷切開水面,激起的浪花泛著珍珠母的光澤,能看見水下成群的湟魚,這些沒有鱗片的小家伙貼著船底游過,像銀色的箭。才旦說湟魚要十年才能長一斤,每年洄游時,淺灘里會擠滿銀色的魚群,連水鳥都能踩著魚背過河。說話間,一只漁鷗突然俯沖下來,利爪在水面劃出銀弧,叼著湟魚騰空而起,翅膀掠過之處,湖水蕩開細密的波紋。
沙島的午后是另一種藍。細軟的金沙在陽光下泛著銅色,與湖水的藍形成劇烈碰撞,像天地間最濃烈的色塊拼接。幾個穿藏服的孩子在沙坡上滾下來,笑聲驚起了沙丘后的旱獺,圓滾滾的小家伙立起身張望,黑亮的眼睛映著湖面的光。我躺在沙地上,看云影在湖面上流動,那些棉花糖似的云朵投下的陰影,讓湖水時而變成孔雀藍,時而化作土耳其玉,偶爾掠過的風掀起沙粒,落在手背上帶著陽光的溫度。才旦用紅柳枝在沙上畫著六字真言,他說每一粒沙子都記得遠古的傳說 —— 這里曾是西海龍王的宮殿,那些被浪花沖刷上岸的貝殼,都是龍宮的琉璃瓦。
傍晚的仙女灣成了候鳥的天堂。斑頭雁在淺灘上梳理羽毛,棕頭鷗群突然騰空而起,像一陣白色的旋風掠過水面,翅膀拍打的聲音蓋過了浪濤。遠處的祁連山雪峰正慢慢隱入暮色,峰頂的積雪卻還亮著,像懸在天邊的鉆石。我跟著才旦撿拾起湖邊的瑪尼石,那些刻著 “嗡嘛呢叭咪吽” 的青石被湖水打磨得溫潤,他說每塊石頭都藏著一個心愿,積得多了,就能讓湖水永遠不干涸。
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當最后一縷陽光吻過湖岸,星空開始在天鵝絨般的夜空中鋪展。北斗七星低低地懸在湖面上方,勺柄仿佛能舀起湖水。才旦燃起篝火,我們圍著火焰喝著酥油茶,他唱起古老的歌謠,歌聲混著湖水拍岸的節奏,像大地的心跳。我望著湖面上晃動的星光,突然明白為何藏族人將青海湖稱為 “圣湖”—— 這汪藍不只是水,是雪山的眼淚凝成的寶石,是高原托在掌心的星辰,是所有關于純凈與永恒的想象,都沉淀在這 1050 平方公里的蔚藍里。
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