若要找一個地方,將山川、湖泊、古城、民俗與風花雪月都揉進日子里,那一定是大理。這里有蒼山不墨千秋畫,有洱海無弦萬古琴,有白族村落里的炊煙與花影,也有無數遠方來客的詩與夢。
大理的早晨,是從洱海邊的微光開始的。天還沒亮透,湖面就被一層輕霧籠住,岸邊的白族漁船緩緩劃開水面,船槳激起漣漪,一圈圈蕩開去,輕輕碰觸遠處倒映的蒼山。若這時正趕上初升的太陽,金色的晨光透過霧氣,湖面一瞬間便成了灑落人間的碎金,連山都被鍍上了暖色的光。
沿著洱海騎行,是許多人初到大理的儀式。洱海環湖公路順著湖岸蜿蜒,一邊是碧波蕩漾的湖水,一邊是蒼翠如黛的群山。途中偶遇一片金黃的油菜花田,或者某個白族村寨的白墻灰瓦,都像是畫中點綴的詩意。風從湖面吹來,帶著水氣與花香,拂過發梢和心頭,讓人忍不住放慢腳步,只想與這山水多耗一些時光。
大理古城,是洱海與蒼山之間最柔軟的人間。古城里青石板路縱橫交錯,街巷里懸著花燈與風鈴,白族民居依舊保留著飛檐雕梁與院落花窗。晨間的古城最是安靜,店鋪的木門半掩著,偶有老人挑著擔子走過,賣新鮮的水果和酸木瓜。午后,陽光透過屋檐灑在青石路上,一條條巷子仿佛被時光遺忘,只有遠處偶爾傳來三弦聲,低緩悠揚。
蒼山是大理的脊梁,十九峰連綿起伏,雪線以上常年積雪。若是登山,可見山花漫坡、溪流潺潺,蝴蝶泉畔更是草木葳蕤。有人偏愛坐索道登高,在觀景臺遠眺洱海,一半青山,一半碧水,天地遼闊得讓人心胸也跟著開闊起來。
夜晚的大理別有一番味道。古城的酒吧和咖啡館里,三五知己圍爐談天,歌手彈著吉他唱歌,聲音在小巷里回蕩,和風吹過,帶走了酒香與笑聲。洱海邊,月光灑在水面,水波與星光交錯,一葉漁船靜靜泊在岸邊,漁火與遠山相互依偎,仿佛整個大理都陷進一場緩慢而繾綣的夢里。
大理的風花雪月,不只在風景,更在生活的縫隙里。風,是下關風,呼嘯著吹過蒼山雪線,吹散云霧,吹來朗朗晴空;花,是上關花,春來百花齊放,田野與村寨一片芬芳;雪,是蒼山雪,四季不融,守著大理的清冷與潔白;月,是洱海月,水光瀲滟,千帆入夢。
這里吸引了無數遠方來客,也留住了許多人。有背包客在古城開了家小酒館,有畫家在洱海邊蓋了間工作室,有文藝青年干脆把房子搬到了白族村寨,每天推開窗就是湖光山色,寫字、喝茶、看云卷云舒,把生活過成詩。
大理最難得的,是那份包容與灑脫。這里既有白族老人一生守著土地與花木,也有遠道而來的年輕人在這里落腳生根,騎車、畫畫、彈琴、發呆,誰也不會覺得突兀。山在、海在、風在,人就在,心也在。https://txc.qq.com/products/756725/blog/1786658
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春來油菜花開遍山野,夏至白族三月街人頭攢動,秋有稻田金黃與桂花清香,冬有蒼山雪落無聲,洱海波光依舊澄澈如初。四季更替,蒼山不老,洱海長青,大理在時光里,從容自在地呼吸著,把遠方的來客和久居的人一并收進它的懷抱。
若要說遠方是什么樣子,大概就是大理的樣子吧。風吹著湖水輕輕拍打岸邊,暮色里燈火點點,身后是青山作伴,面前是洱海作歌。世界很大,而大理,永遠在等你。
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