收拾行囊時(shí)特意帶上了那本泛黃的詩集,封面上 “面朝大海,春暖花開” 的字跡已有些模糊。列車駛離城市的瞬間,窗外的鋼筋水泥逐漸被成片的綠替代,心也跟著輕快起來,仿佛每一次鐵軌的震動(dòng),都是在為即將開啟的散文詩行標(biāo)注停頓。
清晨的碼頭飄著薄霧,漁船的桅桿在霧中若隱若現(xiàn),像一行行未寫完的詩。我踩著露水登上輪渡,木棧道被踩得咯吱作響,驚起幾只棲息在欄桿上的海鷗。它們掠過水面時(shí),翅膀掃起的漣漪擴(kuò)散成一圈圈淡藍(lán)色的韻腳,與遠(yuǎn)處的濤聲連成一片。船開了,馬達(dá)的轟鳴里混著漁民的號(hào)子,粗獷的調(diào)子卻意外地與海浪的節(jié)奏合拍,像是為這趟旅程定下了隨性的韻腳。
住的小旅館推開窗就是沙灘,床單上還帶著陽光曬過的味道。第一日清晨是被浪聲喚醒的,拉開窗簾時(shí)正撞見一輪紅日從海平面蹦出來,把海水染成半透明的橘色。穿拖鞋踩過沙灘的路上,撿到半片被浪沖上岸的貝殼,內(nèi)側(cè)的紋路像極了五線譜,說不定昨夜的潮聲曾在這里譜過樂章。早餐在街角的老店解決,老板娘端來的海鮮粥冒著熱氣,蔥花浮在表面,如同詩句里點(diǎn)睛的修飾。
午后常去礁石灘散步,退潮后的礁石縫里藏著許多秘密。小螃蟹舉著螯鉗橫沖直撞,把沙面劃出細(xì)碎的虛線;寄居蟹背著彩螺殼挪動(dòng),像是提著小巧的行李箱在趕路;還有些不知名的海生物,吐出的泡沫在陽光下折射出虹彩,轉(zhuǎn)瞬又被新的浪沫覆蓋。蹲在礁石上看這些微小的生命,忽然覺得日子不必追求波瀾壯闊,像它們這樣在潮起潮落間認(rèn)真生活,已是一首動(dòng)人的短章。
有天傍晚遇見位守?zé)羲睦先耍谑A上擦拭銅制的望遠(yuǎn)鏡,鏡片反射的余暉落在花白的胡須上。攀談間得知他在這里守了三十年,每天的工作就是檢查燈芯、記錄潮汐,重復(fù)的日子卻被他過出了滋味。“你看這海浪,” 他指著遠(yuǎn)處的翻涌,“每天來的樣子都差不多,可細(xì)看就知道,沒有兩朵浪花是一模一樣的。” 老人的話讓我想起行囊里的詩集,原來最動(dòng)人的散文詩,從來都藏在重復(fù)的日常里。
暴雨突至的午后,被困在海邊的咖啡館。雨點(diǎn)敲打著玻璃窗,匯成蜿蜒的水流,把窗外的海景暈染成印象派的畫。鄰座的姑娘在速寫本上畫海,筆尖劃過紙面的聲音與雨聲交織,像是在創(chuàng)作一首無聲的詩。我翻開筆記本寫下:“雨是天空寫給大海的信,用千萬行水跡訴說思念。” 咖啡涼了的時(shí)候,雨停了,天邊掛起一道彩虹,橋拱恰好落在遠(yuǎn)處的漁船桅桿上,美得像句不摻修飾的大白話詩。
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離開前的最后一個(gè)黃昏,坐在沙灘上看日落。夕陽把影子拉得很長,與海浪退去的軌跡重疊,像是在沙灘上寫下一行省略號(hào)。這些天收集的貝殼被擺成小小的陣,有的盛著海水,倒映著漸暗的天空;有的空著,仿佛在等待夜風(fēng)填寫新的詩句。遠(yuǎn)處的燈塔開始閃爍,光束掃過海面時(shí),把我的思緒也照得透亮 —— 所謂向海而行,或許不只是奔向一片具體的海域,而是尋找一種把日子過成散文詩的心境,讓每個(gè)平凡時(shí)刻都沾著些咸濕的詩意。
收拾行李時(shí),把那片貝殼夾進(jìn)了詩集。列車駛離海邊的路上,翻開本子看到最后寫下的句子:“海浪帶走了腳印,卻把詩行刻進(jìn)了心跳。” 窗外的海岸線漸漸縮成一條細(xì)線,像極了這首日子寫成的散文詩,在視野里留下溫柔的余韻。
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