當東方的第一抹晨曦越過玉龍雪山的巍峨山巔,灑落在麗江古城的青瓦上,這座藏在滇西北高原的古城,便從夢里醒來。巷子里靜靜流淌著的小河,青石板路上踩過的馬蹄聲,斑駁木樓后暈染的日光……一切都仿佛沒有變過,依舊是一幅悠悠的歲月長卷。
麗江古城的美,美在古樸、美在靈動。清晨的四方街上,賣酥油茶的納西阿媽已經擺好小攤,煙氣裊裊升起,混合著古城特有的木香與花香,隨風彌散開來。游客未至,古城還是它自己的模樣,閑適、安寧。順著小橋流水漫步,兩旁的木樓在晨光里泛著溫潤的光澤,店鋪的木門虛掩著,一聲犬吠,打碎了巷子里的寂靜。
與江南的水鄉不同,麗江的水是從高山雪域奔騰而來。玉龍雪山的融雪匯成黑龍潭的清泉,又沿著古城蜿蜒的河道穿街走巷。每到傍晚,河水映著天邊的晚霞,一群白色的鴿子飛過屋檐,留下一陣撲棱的翅膀聲,驚起一片悠遠的時光。
倘若要說麗江最動人的風景,必是那玉龍雪山。它如一位端坐天際的守護者,萬年積雪皚皚,云霧繚繞,俯瞰古城與村落。晴天時分,藍天如洗,雪山在陽光下銀光閃爍,雄渾壯美;陰雨時分,雪山又隱入云霧,仿佛人間已不可及的仙境。許多人為了看玉龍雪山的真容,不惜早起攀登,或搭乘索道直抵海拔四千多米的冰川公園。寒風凜冽,呼吸短促,但當那一片圣潔雪域映入眼簾時,所有的辛苦都化作了敬畏與歡喜。
古城之外,是更廣闊的麗江。在束河古鎮,青石路旁的馬幫遺跡仍在,老屋下的柴火還溫暖著炊煙。那里的小巷沒有太多的喧囂,只有老人靠著門框編竹簍,孩子們在溪水邊嬉戲打鬧。走遠一些,還有拉市海。冬日時分,成群的候鳥從遠方飛來,水面上浮動著一片自由與寧靜。劃一葉小舟入湖,遠處的雪山倒映湖心,隨波微動,仿佛進入了詩里的遠方。https://txc.qq.com/products/749980/blog/1774452
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麗江也不僅僅只有安靜與閑適,它也有喧鬧的另一面。夜幕降臨時,古城的酒吧街亮起燈火,吉他聲、手鼓聲、納西古樂交織成夜色中的一曲狂歡。年輕人圍坐火塘旁,喝著米酒,說著遠方的故事,歡笑聲傳出木窗,融入這座城的夜風里。或許,這種白日是古意,夜晚是放縱的雙面姿態,才是麗江最迷人的地方。
在麗江,你總能遇見來自遠方的人,有人說是為了放逐疲憊,有人說是為了尋一場艷遇,也有人只是想在這座古城里停下腳步,給忙亂的心一個出口。那些異鄉的面孔與納西古老的歌謠在這里相遇,日升月落間,編織出一段段短暫又漫長的故事。
納西族的老人常說:“麗江是一座活著的古城。”的確,它在變,酒吧街越來越熱鬧,游客越來越多,但那條從雪山流下的小河,仍在靜靜流淌;那一扇扇木門背后的人家,依舊柴米油鹽,日子悠長。晨鐘暮鼓,篝火歌舞,變與不變,都是麗江最獨特的模樣。
夜深人靜時,走在古城的青石路上,抬頭是密布的星光,低頭是潺潺的水聲,一盞盞花燈在水面搖曳,把遠方來客的影子映得斑駁。或許某個歸人會在此駐足,也或許某個過客會踏著月色離去,但麗江從不挽留,也不曾送別,她只是用雪山、流水與古城,把光陰輕輕安放在每個人心底最柔軟的地方。
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