中國(guó)的西南邊陲,總有幾處地方,能把雪山、古城、溪水與人間煙火安頓得如此恰到好處。麗江,就是其中之一。
麗江最有名的,自然是麗江古城。初進(jìn)古城,腳下是光滑的青石板路,兩旁是木樓飛檐、雕花窗欞,家家戶(hù)戶(hù)的門(mén)口掛著紅燈籠或曬著五彩的納西織錦。最獨(dú)特的是穿城而過(guò)的流水,小橋流水,潺潺叮咚,沿街而走,把古城映襯得格外靈動(dòng)。
晨起時(shí)分,古城最安靜。一扇扇木門(mén)尚未開(kāi)啟,街道空曠,偶有清掃街巷的老人推著木桶走過(guò),掃帚聲在石板路上輕響。一只橘貓從屋檐上輕巧跳下,鉆進(jìn)小巷深處,留下一串被露水打濕的貓爪印。
等到太陽(yáng)爬高,古城漸漸熱鬧起來(lái)。小店一間間開(kāi)了門(mén),有賣(mài)納西銀飾的、賣(mài)民族手鼓的,也有賣(mài)鮮花餅與普洱茶的。石橋邊,清亮的溪水潺潺而過(guò),水車(chē)吱呀吱呀地轉(zhuǎn)著,孩童在溪邊蹲著玩水,遠(yuǎn)處的游
客或停下來(lái)拍照,或依水而坐發(fā)呆,日子像溪水一樣,流淌得溫柔又緩慢。
麗江古城從來(lái)不是一座孤立的古城,它背后有一座山,叫玉龍雪山。玉龍雪山是納西族人心中的神山,巍峨的雪峰終年積雪,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)望去,銀裝素裹、云霧繚繞,像一條玉龍靜臥天際,護(hù)佑著這片高原人家。
若是天氣晴好,乘車(chē)出城,沿著盤(pán)山公路一路向雪山進(jìn)發(fā)。公路兩旁是高大的云杉林與青稞地,遠(yuǎn)處雪山頂在陽(yáng)光下閃著冷冽的光。到了山腳,可以換乘索道直上冰川公園。索道緩緩升起,云霧漸漸在腳下散開(kāi),雪線(xiàn)越來(lái)越近,耳邊風(fēng)聲獵獵,心中卻生出一種難得的敬畏。
玉龍雪山腳下,藏著一片碧藍(lán)如鏡的水,叫藍(lán)月谷。藍(lán)月谷的水因含碳酸鈣而呈現(xiàn)夢(mèng)幻的湖藍(lán)色,一彎彎從山間傾瀉而下,匯聚成溪、成潭。陽(yáng)光落在水面,波光瀲滟,溪水與遠(yuǎn)處的雪山交相輝映,仿佛一幅藏在云端的油畫(huà)。有人沿著棧道走,有人在水邊駐足發(fā)呆,也有人索性脫了鞋子,讓冰冷的雪水淌過(guò)腳面,任由山風(fēng)吹走疲憊。
麗江的夜,最是迷人。古城的酒吧街燈火通明,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)便能聽(tīng)見(jiàn)一把把吉他彈奏的民謠,有歌手低聲唱著遠(yuǎn)方與愛(ài)情,木質(zhì)的窗戶(hù)半開(kāi),酒香混著夜風(fēng),帶著年輕人的笑聲與醉意飄散在巷子深處。
可麗江最美的夜,不在酒吧里,而在街巷之外的安靜處。走出熱鬧的四方街,沿著幽暗的青石巷,找一處院落坐下,抬頭就能看見(jiàn)星空。高原的夜空透亮得不像話(huà),銀河橫貫天際,雪山在遠(yuǎn)處?kù)o靜守望,月光照在屋頂?shù)那嗤呱希赵诩{西老人的手鼓上,也照見(jiàn)了多少漂泊來(lái)此的心。
麗江不僅是游客的天堂,更是納西族人生活的故土。許多老宅子里,還住著土生土長(zhǎng)的納西老人,他們?cè)陂T(mén)口晾曬辣椒和青稞,屋里傳出納西古樂(lè)的調(diào)子,古老的東巴文字寫(xiě)在門(mén)楣上,守護(hù)著一個(gè)民族亙古不變的信仰與溫柔。
離開(kāi)麗江時(shí),許多人會(huì)買(mǎi)一張手鼓或一條納西披肩帶走,卻帶不走的是這座城的風(fēng)聲、水聲與雪山的冷冽。它們藏在旅行者的夢(mèng)里,藏在月光落在石板路上時(shí),藏在每一個(gè)在古城醉過(guò)的人心里。
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