長江入海口，上海這座繁華都市在夏日熱浪中，藏著一份清涼美味——上海冷面，宛如江南小調(diào)，奏響美食與生活樂章。

舊時光的質(zhì)樸本味

往昔上海，物質(zhì)不豐，冷面是簡單生活的慰藉。街頭小面館里，木桌木椅，滿是煙火氣。

潔白面條在沸水中翻滾后撈出，置于竹匾，風(fēng)扇吹涼，裹挾夏日清風(fēng)。阿姨舀一勺醇厚醬油、一勺酸香醋、一勺稀釋花生醬均勻淋上，再抖三抖辣油點(diǎn)綴。孩子多討辣油，換來嗔怪白眼，背后是對傳統(tǒng)配比的堅守。

繁華都市的多元澆頭

時代變遷，上海繁華，冷面迎來“華麗轉(zhuǎn)身”。冷面攤前，澆頭如美食江湖，種類繁多。

辣醬熱烈似火，點(diǎn)燃味蕾；三絲清爽如泉，帶來涼意；鱔絲鮮美似風(fēng)，撩撥心弦；小排醇厚如酒，回味無窮；大排豪邁大氣，燜肉溫柔婉約，面筋彰顯工藝，素雞傳遞素食韻味。年輕吃貨要三樣澆頭，老輩人搖頭念叨“不懂本味”，卻是時代變遷寫照。

我心愛的冷面搭配

于我，吃冷面是與美味的邂逅，是生活態(tài)度的體現(xiàn)。我鐘情素澆搭配，素三絲是絕佳伴侶。

茭白脆嫩如鳥鳴，青椒辛辣似夏風(fēng)，海帶鮮香如海風(fēng)，交織成田園畫卷。無錫面筋軟糯厚實(shí)，搭配筍片鮮嫩、香菇醇厚、木耳爽滑、金針菜獨(dú)特、菜心清新，翻炒后淋麻油，潔雅爽口，唇齒留香。綠豆芽沸水一汆，生脆筆挺，為冷面添清爽。

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傳統(tǒng)與創(chuàng)新的冷面碰撞

上海飲食江湖里，冷面搭配有不同觀點(diǎn)。老上海人認(rèn)為夏天飲食要清淡，炸豬排、炒鱔糊與冷面搭配，如不和諧“音樂會”。

清炒鱔糊勾芡厚、明油多，做澆頭“暴殄天物”。但鱔絲與茭白絲、青椒絲白炒，清爽鮮美。民間說“小暑黃鱔賽人參”，愛鱔魚者可選爆鱔。蘇式爆鱔不勾芡，醬色淺淡質(zhì)樸，鹵汁滲透酥脆鱔絲，醇厚清爽，宜酒宜面，可惜上海難吃到正宗的。

無錫梁溪脆鱔在上海餐館常見，但味道差強(qiáng)人意。要么炸不脆，軟塌塌；要么鹵汁重，鱔段粘連。前些日子，我在無錫太湖飯店嘗到絕妙脆鱔。廚師說烹飪有三要點(diǎn)：燙要一步到位出骨且表皮完整；炸分多次，油溫時高時低，最后高油溫定成敗且不焦；上鹵時煸香蔥末，加調(diào)料熬鹵汁，顛翻鱔段裹鹵汁，淋麻油增香。裝盤時鱔段層層疊起架空，似空心寶塔，吃從上往下夾，咬一口又松又脆，甜中帶酸，讓人穿越舊時光。

上海冷面，是夏日城市符號，承載老回憶，迎合新口味。每個炎炎夏日，它靜靜等待人們品嘗，感受生活百味，書寫舌尖傳奇。