解碼“中式美”在化妝品行業(yè)中的跨文化設(shè)計。
《中國化妝品》雜志 | 孫笑笑
近年來,中國美妝市場蓬勃發(fā)展,中國品牌在全球市場嶄露頭角。在這個過程中,設(shè)計與美學(xué)起著關(guān)鍵作用。將中國傳統(tǒng)文化元素巧妙融入美妝設(shè)計,既能賦予產(chǎn)品獨特的文化內(nèi)涵,又能提升品牌在國際市場的辨識度。
本期《中國化妝品》雜志“國際會客間”欄目,邀請到法尚(上海)創(chuàng)意設(shè)計有限公司大中華區(qū)總經(jīng)理Matthieu Rochette-Schneider,共同探討中法文化的多元合作為美妝行業(yè)帶來怎樣更具“中式美學(xué)”的創(chuàng)新路徑,并為文化互鑒的實踐范式提供行業(yè)啟示。
Centdegre法尚(上海)創(chuàng)意設(shè)計有限公司是一家在中國深耕多年的法國設(shè)計公司,憑借其獨特的優(yōu)勢在美妝設(shè)計領(lǐng)域發(fā)揮著重要作用。自2008年進(jìn)入中國市場以來,Centdegre法尚一方面幫助國際美妝品牌深入了解中國本土市場,挖掘中國文化特色,讓這些品牌在中國市場迅速打開局面。另一方面,對于懷揣全球化夢想的中國美妝品牌,Centdegre法尚貢獻(xiàn)出法國豐富多元且具有深厚歷史沉淀的美學(xué)經(jīng)驗。
通過Centdegre法尚的實踐表明,美妝行業(yè)是美學(xué)與文化的天然載體。通過這一載體,中國文化和美學(xué)符號必將得以在世界范圍內(nèi)傳播。
法尚(上海)創(chuàng)意設(shè)計有限公司大中華區(qū)總經(jīng)理
Matthieu Rochette-Schneider
CCR:
請介紹一下法尚,并分享您對于成功的創(chuàng)意設(shè)計的理解。
Matthieu:法尚是1988創(chuàng)立的國際品牌創(chuàng)意與設(shè)計公司,自2008年進(jìn)入中國市場,積極融合中法文化優(yōu)勢,在美容、工業(yè)設(shè)計等多領(lǐng)域為市場打造富有生命力的品牌營銷與設(shè)計方案。
自上海分公司成立以來,我們始終致力于培養(yǎng)扎根中國市場的設(shè)計師團(tuán)隊。這不僅要求設(shè)計師具備國際化的專業(yè)水準(zhǔn),更需要他們深入理解本土文化,將創(chuàng)造力與對中國審美的認(rèn)知相結(jié)合。更重要的是,我認(rèn)為"中式美"是創(chuàng)意的靈魂所在。我們反復(fù)強(qiáng)調(diào)這個概念,是因為它承載著中國人深層的情感認(rèn)同。當(dāng)設(shè)計師真正捕捉到這種文化基因時,其作品不僅能展現(xiàn)視覺美感,更能喚起消費者作為中國人的自豪感,這正是創(chuàng)意設(shè)計最具感染力的價值體現(xiàn)。
CCR:Could you introduce Centdegre and share your understanding of successful creative design?
Matthieu: Centdegre established in 1988, is an international branding and design agency. Since entering the Chinese market in 2008, we’ve actively bridged French and Chinese cultural strengths, delivering dynamic brand strategies and design solutions across industries like beauty and industrial design.
Since founding our Shanghai branch, we’ve focused on cultivating designer teams deeply rooted in China’s market. This requires not only world-class expertise but also a profound grasp of local culture—melding creativity with an intuitive understanding of Chinese aesthetics. Crucially, we view "Chinese beauty" as the soul of creativity. This concept, which we emphasize repeatedly, resonates with the emotional identity of Chinese audiences. When designers authentically capture this cultural DNA, their work transcends visual appeal to evoke national pride—a testament to the true power of creative design.
CCR:
您如何看待近年來中國美妝消費市場的升級趨勢?其中哪些領(lǐng)域的發(fā)展最具代表性?
Matthieu:首先,是品類需求的結(jié)構(gòu)性變化。我們觀察到香水市場正迎來爆發(fā)式增長,這也是法尚一直以來積極和重點參與的類目。同時,在護(hù)膚領(lǐng)域,針對特定問題的產(chǎn)品(如黑眼圈護(hù)理)需求激增,反映出消費者對精準(zhǔn)功效的追求。
其次,是技術(shù)突破與文化賦能的并行發(fā)展。一方面,中國品牌通過技術(shù)創(chuàng)新開發(fā)高專業(yè)度的產(chǎn)品,我們也見證了中國美妝品牌在技術(shù)創(chuàng)新方面的巨大進(jìn)步;另一方面,傳統(tǒng)元素的價值被重新挖掘,如護(hù)膚品與中醫(yī)理論的結(jié)合,這種文化基因正在成為產(chǎn)品的差異化優(yōu)勢。
最后一點,也是我一直在關(guān)注并且很感興趣的,和彩妝有關(guān)。最近,我們在彩妝領(lǐng)域開展了一些工作。我認(rèn)為在未來幾年,藝術(shù)和彩妝師的相關(guān)問題會變得越來越重要。
CCR:How do you perceive the recent premiumization trend in China’s beauty market? Which sectors stand out?
Matthieu: First, we’re seeing structural shifts in demand. The fragrance category, where Centdegre has strong expertise, is experiencing explosive growth. Meanwhile, skincare is witnessing a surge in hyper-targeted solutions (e.g., dark circle treatments), reflecting consumers’ pursuit of precision efficacy.
Second, technological innovation and cultural empowerment are advancing in tandem. Chinese brands are developing clinically sophisticated products while rediscovering traditional elements—like integrating TCM (Traditional Chinese Medicine) principles into skincare. These cultural codes are becoming key differentiators.
Lastly, I’m particularly intrigued by makeup’s evolving landscape. Our recent work in this space suggests that artistry and makeup-artist collaborations will gain prominence in coming years.
CCR:
法尚服務(wù)過全球眾多美妝品牌,這些經(jīng)驗如何反哺對中國市場的洞察?在將國際創(chuàng)意經(jīng)驗“翻譯”給中國市場時,如何避免“水土不服”?
Matthieu:在和一些國際集團(tuán)、品牌合作的項目中,當(dāng)他們希望在中國市場發(fā)展并尋求我們的幫助時,我們總會努力幫助這些美妝集團(tuán)了解中國市場的差異,以及中國本土的特色。這對我們來說是一個很大的優(yōu)勢,同時也非常有意思,因為市場一直在變化。那些大型美妝集團(tuán)越來越希望了解本土市場的狀況、他們在本土能做些什么以及如何與本土文化遺產(chǎn)相結(jié)合來開展業(yè)務(wù)。這是我們工作的重要部分。
我從未覺得在這方面有很大的“文化差異障礙”。因為我有幸和一些多元化的團(tuán)隊合作,也和來自中國不同地區(qū)的客戶及公司有過合作。這些經(jīng)歷讓我了解了不同的發(fā)展路徑,也讓我避免犯錯。
CCR:How does Centdegre’s global beauty brand experience enhance insights for China? How do you avoid "cultural misalignment" when localizing international creativity?
Matthieu: When global beauty conglomerates seek our help to enter China, we prioritize helping them decode market nuances and localize strategies. This dynamic process fascinates us—as brands increasingly demand insights into China’s cultural heritage and how to harmonize it with their offerings.
I’ve never perceived significant "cultural barriers," thanks to collaborating with diverse teams and clients across China. These experiences have sharpened our ability to navigate varied development pathways and preempt missteps.
CCR:
您認(rèn)為如何將中國傳統(tǒng)文化元素轉(zhuǎn)化為國際美妝品牌的視覺語言?能否以具體案例說明這一過程中的挑戰(zhàn)與突破?
Matthieu:法國香水品牌夜游人的“白霧升”是我們近期的作品。這款以中國民間傳說《白蛇傳》為靈感的香水,通過香氣重新講述了這個大家耳熟能詳故事里的詩意和中式美學(xué)。這款香水在2025上海奢侈品包裝展上首次亮相時,我們邀請品牌聯(lián)合創(chuàng)始人與調(diào)香師,從文化視角分享創(chuàng)作靈感,還攜手多家香水集合店舉辦賞香沙龍,與香水愛好者深度交流。所以,“白霧升”不僅是一款香水,更是中法文化交融的藝術(shù)結(jié)晶。
此外,由中國第一代調(diào)香師創(chuàng)辦的企業(yè)雙馬香精也在法尚助力下完成品牌升級。我們?yōu)槠湓O(shè)計的全新LOGO,融入傳統(tǒng)中式花窗元素,搭配“新經(jīng)典”造型風(fēng)格,展現(xiàn)出雙馬香精立足中國、放眼全球的視野。
值得一提的還有中國香氛品牌觀夏的“三重茶”香水,是我們深耕中國市場的成果結(jié)晶。其八角形的設(shè)計靈感源于中國古代園林八角窗,多面結(jié)構(gòu)象征著女性的獨特魅力。這款香水還成功入選 2022年P(guān)entawards 獲獎名單,不僅是對我們設(shè)計創(chuàng)意的高度認(rèn)可,也證明了融合中國文化元素的產(chǎn)品在國際上的吸引力。
CCR:How do you translate traditional Chinese elements into visual language for global beauty brands? Could you share case studies?
Matthieu:Our latest creation —— "Serpent Blanc" ,by French perfume brand Une Nuit Nomade is inspired by the Chinese folk legend "The Tale of White Snake". We reimagined this folklore through scent storytelling and debuted it at Shanghai Luxury Packaging 2025 with co-creator dialogues and immersive salons. It’s a true Franco-Chinese artistic fusion.
We also revitalized DHFF, China’s pioneering perfumery house. Their new logo integrates traditional lattice window motifs with a "neo-classic" style, reflecting their global vision rooted in Chinese heritage.
Another highlight is Tosummer’s "Triple Tea" fragrance. Its octagonal design, inspired by classical garden windows, symbolizes feminine mystique. Its 2022 Pentawards win validated both our creative approach and the global appeal of culturally infused designs.
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CCR:
當(dāng)前,AI生成設(shè)計方案成為可能,法尚如何定義 “人類創(chuàng)意” 在跨文化合作中的不可替代性?
Matthieu:在一些項目中,我嘗試過使用人工智能進(jìn)行創(chuàng)意設(shè)計。但說實話,我并不認(rèn)可。我認(rèn)為它是一個有用的工具,能提供一些幫助,但我對其生成結(jié)果的質(zhì)量并不滿意。我覺得人類的創(chuàng)造力依然有很大空間,可以創(chuàng)造出美麗的設(shè)計。
CCR:With AI now generating designs, how do you define the irreplaceability of human creativity in cross-cultural work?
Matthieu: I’ve experimented with AI for creative projects but remain unconvinced. While it’s a useful auxiliary tool, its output lacks the nuance of human creativity. There’s still vast uncharted territory for designers to craft truly meaningful beauty.
CCR:
您認(rèn)為未來美妝行業(yè)將出現(xiàn)哪些顛覆性技術(shù)或消費趨勢?創(chuàng)意設(shè)計機(jī)構(gòu)如何提前布局以應(yīng)對變化?
Matthieu:我認(rèn)為這和科學(xué)研究密切相關(guān)。未來,護(hù)膚品領(lǐng)域的科研和新技術(shù)將至關(guān)重要。但同時,我覺得技術(shù)發(fā)展的同時,文化和傳統(tǒng)方面的趨勢也會越來越明顯。這很有意思,因為我認(rèn)為這兩者并不是相互對立的。有幾種方法可以做好準(zhǔn)備。首先,要時刻關(guān)注行業(yè)動態(tài),對所有新變化保持敏銳的興趣,這非常重要;其次,要隨時準(zhǔn)備迎接新的挑戰(zhàn),設(shè)計公司必須做好準(zhǔn)備,接受任何挑戰(zhàn),抓住所有新興的趨勢。這樣才能不錯過行業(yè)內(nèi)的新機(jī)遇。
CCR:What disruptive trends will reshape beauty? How should creative agencies prepare?
Matthieu: Scientific breakthroughs in skincare R&D will be pivotal. Meanwhile, cultural and traditional influences will grow stronger—not as opposing forces but complementary drivers. To stay ahead, agencies must:
1、Maintain obsessive curiosity about industry shifts;
2、Cultivate agility to embrace emerging challenges.
CCR:
在“零碳工廠”與循環(huán)經(jīng)濟(jì)趨勢下,法尚如何通過包裝創(chuàng)新降低美妝產(chǎn)品的環(huán)境足跡?例如,是否有可降解材料或模塊化設(shè)計案例?
Matthieu:不久前我在巴黎為中國企業(yè)組織了一場關(guān)于可持續(xù)發(fā)展的大型研討會。我認(rèn)為,在中國,尤其是美妝行業(yè),可持續(xù)發(fā)展的情況與其他國家截然不同。
在世界其他地方看到的綠色發(fā)展趨勢,在中國會有很大差異。首先,技術(shù)會融入這一模式,這是肯定的。而且在中國,可持續(xù)發(fā)展不只是追求更環(huán)保。另外,傳統(tǒng)和中醫(yī)等因素肯定會融入中國的可持續(xù)發(fā)展轉(zhuǎn)型過程。這也會讓中國化妝品行業(yè)的可持續(xù)發(fā)展趨勢與世界其他地方大不相同。
CCR:How is Centdegre reducing beauty’s environmental footprint through packaging innovation? Any examples of biodegradable materials or modular designs?
Matthieu: Recently, I hosted a Paris sustainability summit for Chinese beauty players. China’s green transition differs markedly: here, sustainability isn’t just eco-friendliness—it intertwines with tech innovation and TCM philosophies. This fusion will shape a uniquely Chinese approach to circularity, distinct from Western models.
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